Important notice before you start! This instruction is not applicable for the sleeveless version. If you are lining this dress, and will not be machine washing it, you can skip the overlocks of the main fabric dress that are suggested in the original instruction.
After `Cutting fabric and marking´ of the original instruction, proceed with the below steps.
I. Marking and cutting the lining pieces
A. Cut and mark the lining pieces of the same pattern pieces as the short sleeve or the balloon sleeve top as well as side front, centre front and side back, centre back pieces of the dress.
B. Fold the neck facing front pattern at mid front and align it to the neck and shoulder of the centre front lining piece. Make a mark with some tailor´s chalk along the “bottom” of the facing (solid line Cyan) and finish it 1 cm outside of the facing at mid front. Remove the neck facing front pattern and make a new chalk mark 1 cm “above” the first one (dashed line Magenta). Place the neck facing back pattern aligned to the centre back lining piece neck. Make a mark with some tailor´s chalk along the “bottom” of the facing (solid line Cyan). Remove the neck facing back pattern and make a new chalk mark 1 cm “above” the first one (dashed line Magenta). Cut along the second dashed (Magenta) line on both centre front and centre back lining piece.
If you´re making the balloon sleeve for this dress, you can skip C below
C. Place the short sleeve facing pattern aligned to the bottom hem of the short sleeve lining. Make a mark with some tailor´s chalk along the “top” of the facing (solid line Cyan). Remove the short sleeve facing pattern and make a new chalk mark 1 cm “below” of the first one (dashed line Magenta). Cut along the second dashed (Magenta) line.
Continue along the original instruction steps 3 – 9
After step 9. Side seam / Shoulder / Pocket skip step 10. Neck facing and continue with the below:
II. Assemble the lining pieces and neck facing
A. Place the centre front lining pieces face to face and pin along mid front. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance and press the seam open. Put the side front lining pieces face to face to the centre front lining pieces and match the notches along the princess line. Pin in place and sew with 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seams open. Put the side back lining pieces face to face to the centre back lining pieces and match the notches along the princess line. Pin in place and sew with 1 cm seam allowance. Press the seams open.
B. Align the front and back lining pieces face to face along the shoulders and pin. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance and press the seam open. Place the neck facings back face to face to neck facing front and pin the shoulders. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance and press the seam open.
C. Position the bottom “wider” outer edge of the neck facing face to face to the lining dress piece and pin in place. Sew with 0,5 cm seam allowance all around and iron the seam allowance towards the lining dress. If necessary, make a few tiny cuts only in the lining fabric seam allowance where it curves, but not too close to the seam.
D. Make sure the front and back lining pieces are lying face to face, match the notches along the sides and pin. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance and press the seam open.
III. Attach the lining dress to the main fabric dress
A. Let the main fabric dress sit with the right side of fabric to the outside. Place the lining dress face to face to the main fabric dress and match the shoulder seams as well as the mid front notch to the mid front seam. Pin along the neck, and after undoing the zipper, continue to pin along the zipper sides. Sew along the sides as well as around the neck with 0,5 cm seam allowance. Cut the corners of the seam allowance.
B. Pull the lining dress apart from the main fabric dress and make sure they are both seen from the right side of fabric and separated around the neck. You can now sew a 2 mm understitch from the right side of fabric on the side of the facing. Push the seam allowance around the neck to the side of the facing from underneath at the same time as you are sewing and sew for as far as you can reach on the side of the neck facing.
C. Pull up the main fabric skirt part and gather the bottom of the lining skirt part along mid back and pin in place. Sew from the notches at the end of the zipper and all the way to the bottom.
D. Measure and mark with some tailor´s chalk at 3 cm along the bottom edge of the entire lining dress. Cut off. Fold and iron the new edge 1 + 1 cm towards the wrong side of fabric. Pin in place and make a stitch 2 mm from the folded top edge along the entire bottom.
E. Bring the lining dress to the inside of the main fabric dress so both are showing from the right side of fabric and iron a nice edge around the neck. Pin the lining dress to the main fabric dress around the armholes and fasten the layers with a seam of 0,5 cm seam allowance.
IV. Sew and attach the balloon sleeve – Repeat on both sides
Follow step 11.1 A-F in the original instruction, but skip step G and continue with the below:
A. Fold and iron the outer edge of the balloon sleeve top lining sleeve head, 1 cm towards the wrong side of fabric.
B. Place the top sleeve lining face to face, unfold the ironed outer edge and pin the under-sleeve side. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance and press the seam open.
C. Let the main fabric sleeve sit inside out with the right side of the balloon sleeve bottom visible and the balloon sleeve top tucked into the inside of the sleeve. Position the balloon sleeve top lining face to face to the balloon sleeve bottom of main fabric, match the under-sleeve seams and pin in place. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance all around.
D. Iron the seam allowance upwards and turn the sleeve to the right side of fabric.
Now proceed with step G from the original instruction, but make sure to keep the balloon sleeve top lining tucked away in the process. After finishing step G return here and finish the sleeve with the below step.
E. Let the lined dress sit with the lining to the outside. Pull up the balloon sleeve top lining through the sleeve and fit the notches of the lining sleeve to the armhole. Pin or tack in place and make sure the fold of the lining sleeve head just slightly covers the 1 cm seam around the armhole. Fasten the lining sleeve making blind stitches by hand around the entire armhole.
V. Sew and attach the short sleeve – Repeat on both sides
Follow step 11.2 A-B in the original instruction, but skip step C-E and continue with the below:
A. Fold and iron the outer edge of the short sleeve lining sleeve head, 1 cm towards the wrong side of fabric.
B. Place the short sleeve lining face to face, unfold the ironed outer edge and pin the under-sleeve side. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance and press the seam open.
C. Position the top of the short sleeve facing face to face to the bottom of the short sleeve lining and pin all around. Sew with 0,5 cm seam allowance and iron the seam allowance upwards to the lining sleeve side.
D. Let the main fabric short sleeve sit with the right side of fabric on the outside. Pull the short sleeve lining outside of the main fabric sleeve face to face, match the under-sleeve seams and pin along the sleeve opening. Sew with 0,5 cm seam allowance. Pull out the short sleeve lining and push the seam allowance towards the facing side. Make a 2 mm understitch on the side of the facing along the sleeve opening. Iron a nice finish at the bottom edge. Should you wish to add a visible top stitch, now is the time to do so. As this sleeve is nice looking without a visible top stitch you can also leave it as it is as the lining will hold the facing in place once fastened.
Now proceed with step E. from the original instruction, but make sure to keep the short sleeve lining tucked away in the process. After finishing step E. return here and finish the sleeve with the below step.
Finish up the dress by following step 12. Hem in the original instruction.
Done!