After `Cutting fabric and marking´ proceed with the below steps.
I. Marking and cutting the lining pieces
A. Cut lining pieces of the same pattern pieces as the sleeves and body but cut off the lining sleeve along the hem fold line and add the old shape of the sleeve bottom to your new lining sleeve hem, making a new notch for folding 2 cm above the new bottom of the lining sleeve.
B. Place the front facing on top of the front lining. Make a mark with some tailor´s chalk along the side of the facing (solid line CYAN). Remove the front facing and make a new chalk mark 1 cm outside of the first one (dashed line MAGENTA). Cut along the second dashed line. Place the top of the front facing on top of the upper part of the front sleeve. Make a mark with some tailor´s chalk along the bottom of the top of the facing (solid line CYAN). Remove the facing and make a new chalk mark 1 cm outside of the first one (dashed line MAGENTA). Cut along the second dashed line.
C. Place the folded back facing on top of the folded back lining along mid back. Make a mark with some tailor´s chalk along the bottom of the neck facing (solid line CYAN). Remove the facing and make a new chalk mark 1 cm above the first one (dashed line MAGENTA). Cut along the second dashed line. Place the upper part of the back facing on top of the upper part of the back sleeve. Make a mark with some tailor´s chalk along the bottom of the neck facing (solid line CYAN). Remove the neck facing and make a new chalk mark 1 cm outside of the first one (dashed line MAGENTA). Cut along the second dashed line.
Continue along the original instruction steps 2 – 7
After `7. Zip´ skip `8. Collar´ as well as `9. Facing´ and proceed with below steps instead.
II. Assemble the lining and facing
A. Position the back facing face to face to the front facings. Pin the shoulders, sew with 1 cm seam allowance, and press the seams open.
B. Assemble the lining pieces together the same way you assembled the main fabric pieces. Place the assembled facing pieces face to face to the assembled back and front facing. Pin along the entire stretch and sew with 0,5 cm seam allowance. Iron the seam allowance towards the side of the lining.
C. Do the gathering of the lining at the waist the same way as the main fabric but not along the bottom of the front facing. After fitting the amount of gathering needed as well as the bottom of the front facing to the inner waistband piece, pin the inner waistband face to face to the gathered lining and bottom front facing. Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance along the gathering and bottom of the front facing. Iron the seam allowance upwards.
III. Attach the lining to main fabric jacket
A. Place the lining jacket face to face to the main fabric jacket, and pin around the outer edges of the entire jacket but leave the neck completely open. Start sewing at the zip on one side, continue along the waist bottom and then along the next zip side. Keep a seam allowance of 1 cm all the way around, except for along the zip where you probably need to sew with a little less seam allowance. You may also have to change back to a narrower presser foot before starting to sew this part. Remember the neck hole should be left open!
B. After cutting the corners of the seam allowance and pressing the seams open, turn the jacket through the neck hole, so the lining is sitting inside the jacket correctly. Then fasten the lining to the main fabric of the neckline by stitching with 0,5 cm seam allowance. Finish the zipper with a top stitch 5 mm from the folded main fabric along the entire zipper on both sides.
IV. Sew and attach the collar to the jacket
A. First, fold and iron the bottom of the collar with a marking on it (if you have marked both collars, you can choose either one),1 cm towards the wrong side of fabric. This collar will from now on be your top collar. The other collar part will be your under collar. Place the top collar face to face to the under collar and pin in place. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance and begin sewing where the top collar is folded. When you get to the collar point, turn with one stitch before continuing along the back. Repeat for the other corner and fasten at the other end.
B. Cut off half of the seam allowance around the collar and and cut away half of that seam allowance right at the collar points. Press the collar open and turn it to the right side of fabric, make nice collar points using a small and pointy pair of scissors, but be very careful not to let the sharp edge of the scissors make a hole in the fabric! Push the seam allowance towards the side of the under collar and make a 2 mm understitch on the side of the under collar for as far as you can reach. Iron the entire collar.
C. Place the unfolded bottom of the under collar face to face to the neck of the main fabric jacket and fasten it with 1 cm seam allowance. Iron the seam allowance towards the collar and then pin the folded side of the top collar from the outside of the jacket to the neckline letting it overlap the neck seam by 1-2 mm. Fasten the top collar from the outside of the jacket making a `stitch in the ditch´ of the neck seam. Fold along the chalked/tacked line and iron or steam a soft fold from the right side of fabric of the top collar. Finish by unpicking the tailor tacks.
After finishing `10. Sleeve hem´ continue with the below steps.
V. Fasten the sleeve lining
A. Pull out the lining sleeves through the sleeve openings and iron the hem fold 2 cm towards the wrong side of lining according to the notches made. Let the overlocked edges of the main fabric sleeve meet the edges of the folded lining sleeve (see cross section sketch).
B. Pin in place and tack below the top stitch of the main fabric sleeve through all layers of lining and main fabric, leaving an extra lining sleeve fold of approximately 1,5 cm.
C. Fasten the lining by hand by lifting the 1,5 cm fold and making a blind hem/ catch stitch only through the “bottom layer” of the lining fold as well as the “inner” hem fold of the main fabric sleeve. This overlap of the lining sleeve is important to make sure it has some extra ease compared to the main fabric sleeve.
