Full Bust Adjustment Part 2 – Bodice with Darts

If you read the previous post on full bust adjustments (FBA) for dartless bodices (like the Cuff Top), you may have wondered how to make an FBA for a bodice that already has a dart (like the Multi Sleeve Midi Dress). The wait is over! Read on to learn how to do an FBA on a bodice with an existing dart.

This tutorial will show you how to make an FBA on a bodice with a dart, using the Multi Sleeve Midi Dress bodice pattern to demonstrate. Keep in mind the steps can be applied to any pattern with a bust dart that extends to the side seam.

Tip: When making major modifications to a pattern, I always recommend making a draft of muslin or other inexpensive fabric to check the fit and make additional alterations if needed. Thrift stores are excellent places to find inexpensive fabric – you can often find donated yardage of fabric, and bedsheets and duvet covers also make great options for tester garments before you cut into your expensive fabric!

You’ll need:

• Measuring tape
• Paper pattern
• Extra paper
• Tape
• Pencil
• Ruler (a clear grid ruler is a great choice!)

First, to calculate your measurements for making a FBA, and for tips on choosing the best starting pattern size, please see “Calculate FBA Measurements” in Full Bust Adjustment – Part 1, here.

Making the FBA on the Pattern:

Once you’ve chosen the best size pattern for your starting point you will make some modifications to the pattern (for tips on choosing the best starting size, see “Calculate FBA Measurements” Step 1 in this post). I recommend tracing a new copy of the pattern in case you need to reference the original.

Step 1: First, you must mark the bust point (BP). This is typically approximately about 4-5cm (1.5-2”) from the end of the dart (moving toward centre front). If you have a larger bust, your own natural BP may be lower than the original pattern, so this will be adjusted in Step 8. For now, draw a line through the centre of the dart, extending 4-5cm (1.5-2”) from the dart end, and make a crossmark on your pattern to indicate BP. I have used 5cm (2”) as my BP location in this example.

Step 2: Next, add a notch approximately ⅓ of the way up the armhole from the underarm, or use the existing armhole notch if there is one. Draw a line to connect the armhole notch (or the one you just added) to the BP. Note: the line should connect at the sewing line, not the edge of the seam, to preserve accurate armhole sizing if attaching a facing or sleeve later. See image for details.

Step 3: Next, draw a line that connects from the BP down to the waist seam (or hem of the dress, if using a pattern with no waist seam, like the V-Neck Dress). This line is parallel with the centre front (CF).

Step 4: Next, cut up along the vertical line from waist to the BP and out along the upper angled line toward the armhole, stopping at the stitching line. Do not cut through the stitching line. Instead, cut into the armhole seam allowance to the stitching line, leaving a pivot point, like a hinge. Cut inward along the line at the centre of the dart toward the BP, leaving a pivot point, or hinge, at BP.

Step 5:

On a separate piece of paper, draw two vertical lines measuring the length of the bodice from neck to waist (if adjusting on a pattern without a waist seam, like the V-Neck Dress, draw the lines the length of the entire front of the dress from neck to hem). The distance between the two lines should be the amount of added fullness you would like to add to your pattern. In this example, I am adding 5cm (2”) fullness (a total of 10cm (4”) overall across the full front bodice) so my vertical lines are 5cm (2”) apart.

Tape your bodice pattern down to the paper, aligning the vertical cut line on the pattern with the right-most vertical line on the new paper.

Step 6: Gently slide the side pattern piece down until the pattern cut line is aligned with the left-most vertical line on the new paper.

Step 7: Draw a horizontal line approximately 7.5cm (3”) up from the waist (or hem, if using a pattern with no waist seam), as pictured. On the Multi-Sleeve Midi Dress it follows the shorten/lengthen guideline already noted on the pattern. Cut along the line and slide the cut piece down to match the position of the hem on the other side of the pattern.

Tape your bodice pattern down to the paper, aligning the vertical cut line on the pattern with the right-most vertical line on the new paper.

Step 8: Tape the pattern securely to the backing paper, then mark your new BP. To do this, find the centre of the dart opening and draw a line through the dart, extending into the centre of the vertical gap (fullness) you created in the pattern. Mark the new BP in the centre of that gap, on the centre dart line as pictured. Note: this is lower than the original BP, because it takes more fabric to go over a larger bust than a smaller bust. This is reflected in the change of length in the garment (and you can add even more bodice length as needed after the FBA is complete).

Step 9: Next, mark a point on that centre dart line 5cm (2”) from your new BP, as pictured. This is the new dart end. Draw the new dart legs from the dart end to connect with the original dart opening. Note: the dart end typically is positioned 4-5cm (1.5-2”) from BP. You may wish to test the best position for your own body before cutting your good fabric.

Step 10: To determine the accurate shape of the dart at the side seam, some folding is needed. First, fold the pattern through the dart end, so that the fold is approximately perpendicular to the centre dart line, as pictured. This will make it easier to fold the dart closed in the next step.

Step 11: Next, fold along the lower dart leg, and pull that dart leg up to match the upper dart leg. Use a ruler to true the side seam, drawing a smooth line through the dart take-up (the folded portion) so the new side seam is straight from armhole to waist. You can use a tracing wheel to mark the new side seam and dart shape, or you can simply tape the pattern together at the dart, and cut along the side seam (then remove the tape).

Step 12: If no further adjustments are desired, your pattern is ready to use!

Two options for adjusting fit at waist:

Because volume was added to the bodice through the entire length (from BP to waist), you will need to adjust the fit at the waist if you plan on sewing this bodice to another piece. For example, the Multi-Sleeve Midi Dress attaches to a skirt piece, so we must restore the original waist measurement of the bodice so it fits to the original skirt piece. This can be adjusted by trimming the side seam (option 1), or by adding a waist dart (option 2).

Choose Option 1 or Option 2 below, depending on your preference.

Option 1 – Trimming the side seam:

In this sample we added 5cm (2″) during the FBA. Trimming this amount from the side seam (starting at the lower dart leg) is only recommended for longer bodices (tunic length, or dresses with no waist seam). To trim this amount from a waist length bodice (as pictured) would create a severe seam angle that would not have a good fit.

Option 2 – Adding a waist dart:

If you prefer you can leave the side seam after you true it in Step 11, and eliminate the extra waist volume by adding a waist dart. To do this, draw a new dart end 2.5-5cm (1-2”) below BP. In this example I’ve marked the dart end 5cm (2”) below BP but you may wish to have a shorter distance – I encourage you to experiment with the placement to find your preference.

Then draw your new dart legs.

Fold the dart closed to true the waist. To do this, fold through the dart end, perpendicular to CF.

Fold the dart leg closest to CF and pull it closed. Blend the waist smooth with a ruler or tracing wheel.

Extend the dart legs to meet the waist seam. If you accidentally cut your pattern at the waist before making this adjustment, just tape a small piece of paper to the waist and then trim. The extra point at the bottom of the dart is essential to ensure the fabric is caught securely in the waist seam when you sew.

When doing an FBA, I highly recommend making a test sample first, to adjust the fit and position of the altered darts. Use an inexpensive fabric like cotton muslin, or a thrifted bedsheet, and sew a quick sample to ensure that the BP is at the right position on your body (don’t be afraid to mark the fabric with pen to make note of any additional alterations!). You can also use the test sample to ensure the dart ends are where you want them to be. I’ve drafted the pattern above with dart ends at 5cm (2″) from BP, but you may wish to begin with dart ends closer to BP (2.5-3cm, or 1-1.5″). It may take a little extra time to figure out the right balance, but it is worth the effort to adjust a pattern to fit your own body. Once you’ve figured out your ideal fit and pattern modifications, you’ll have many more happy sewing days!

Happy sewing,

Kirsten

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