Full Bust Adjustment Part 2 – Bodice with Darts

Published Categorized as Extensions and hacks, It's sew Kirsten!, Sewing Tutorials, TAL Sewing Tutorials 6 Comments on Full Bust Adjustment Part 2 – Bodice with Darts

By Kirsten Schaefer

Kirsten is a textile and apparel design educator and researcher with over 14 years of formal training and practice in pattern making and apparel design. She has a PhD in Communication & Culture with a focus on the 3D knitting industry, and is currently working on developing smart-textile and apparel solutions for rehabilitation and healthcare. Kirsten spends her free time sewing and buying more fabric than she has space for. Her favourite TAL pattern is the V-Neck Jumpsuit!


  1. Thank you for this! I’m working on an FBA for the Multi-sleeve pattern &, as a beginning sewer, it’s a challenge. One question, if I do an FBA on the Small, do I use the small sleeves & back bodice? I originally made a muslin with the medium, the back & sleeves fit great but the front had a weird drag lines around my bust, excess fabric in the upper bust/shoulder area, & a little bit of a gaping neckline, leading me to an FBA with the small because it matches my high bust measurement.

    1. Hi Johnna! Yes, based on your description I’d suggest going with the small and do the FBA. The extra width in the medium would have provided room for a larger bust, but would not have had the best shaping for where you would want it in the front. A small with FBA will likely suit your needs better 🙂

  2. Thank you for this! How does the FBA impact the fit of the sleeves, back, & skirt? Do you have adjust these, too?

    1. Hi Johnna, apologies for only seeing your previous comment when I got the notification for this one, so I’m replying to both in the same day! The FBA should not alter the fit of the sleeves or any other matching pieces, since it’s not lengthening the side seams or other connecting seams. You should not have to adjust other pieces for the FBA modifications – only the front bodice.

  3. Hello! Thank you so much for this tutorial. What would you recommend for doing a FBA on the Tulip Dress pattern, which has the center neck dart? Would you use your tutorial for the dartless pattern or this one? Or would you recommend to use a dartless pivot and slide full bust adjustment?

    1. Hi Lauren! The FBA must use the approach WITH a dart, since this bodice has a dart (the dart takeup is just up above the bust, into the neck – but it’s still there). So a dartless FBA would not work. To do the alteration, follow the same stepes – just slash through the neckline dart to BP (the other cut lines remain the same as a SS dart or Waist dart). You’ll need to add another dart to waist or to side seam though, depending on how much volume you’re adding. The waist needs to measure the same length to fit into the skirt pattern. I’ll take some pics of a few quick doodles and post on the TAL Sewing Community on Facebook as I see you’re a member there and it’s easier to load photos 🙂

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