HOW TO CREATE A LINING PATTERN
Start with the skirt you have chosen to sew with any adjustments already made or additional pattern pieces taped to the pattern. Copy the front and back skirt pattern on separate pattern paper / tracing paper. Then you make the changes below on this new paper and create a completely separate lining pattern.
If you want to keep the facing, mark a new cut line 5 cm below the original waist line and cut off the upper waist portion of the front and back skirt on your lining pattern. Mark and cut new notches along the lines for the darts. If you wish you can cut the lining pattern exactly the same as the skirt pattern and instead stitch and turn the lining to the waist line of the skirt.
Mark a new cut line along the hem foldline on the original pattern and cut off this part on your lining pattern. Mark two notches along each outer side of the front and back pieces; these will be new hem foldlines. The first notch should be 1 cm above the bottom edge and the next one 1 cm above this. Make small cuts at the notches.
For the slit or vent, download these PDF full-scale cut out templates to use with the lining pattern.
Cut out template for lining A4
Cut out template for lining US Letter
Place the template edge to edge with the original pattern and cut along the template.
Please note: Add a notch at the turn. It is important that you make an 8mm cut in your lining fabric at that notch.
HOW TO ADD THE LINING
It is advisable to incorporate the lining after step 9. Side seam of the original instruction. Though, make sure to have overlocked the hem of the skirt before you proceed with the lining below. Should you want to machine wash your lined skirt it may be a good idea to overlock the edges of the lining as well as the edges of the outer skirt as shown in the original instruction 5.1 B. 5.2 B or 5.3 B.
If you decided to fasten the lining at the top of the waist and leave out the waist facing you just skip step 5 below.
1. Prepare lining pieces
A. Make holes in the + markings for all darts. Remove the pattern and gently push a sharp awl through both lining layers at the markings. For a slit you make a diagonal 8 mm cut through both lining fabric layers according to the direction shown on the cut-out template for lining slit. For a vent you cut an 8 mm cut only on the left lining piece vent according to the angle shown in the cut-out template for lining vent.
B. Fold and iron the bottom hem 1 cm towards the wrong side of fabric according to the lower notch on both front and back lining pieces. Fold and iron 1 cm again according to the next notch.
2. Assemble front and back piece – Only for skirt with slit centre front or centre back
Sew all darts according to the same procedure as the original instruction for both front and back pieces. Place the front and back pieces face to face, unfold the prepressed hem folds and pin along both sides leaving centre front and centre back open. Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance and press both side seams open. Iron a nice transition between the front and back piece at the hemline in each side.
3. Slit preparation
Slit centre front
A. Place the front pieces face to face. Pin along mid front and sew with 1 cm seam allowance down to where the diagonal slope starts.
B. Place the back pieces face to face, unfold the prepressed hem folds and pin along centre back from the bottom and up about 40 cm (make sure your centre back is straight and cut without the sloping side). Sew with 1 cm seam allowance and press this short part of the centre back seam open.
C. Iron a nice transition at the hemline centre back. If needed, pin along the refolded hemline and stitch 2 mm below the top fold from one side of centre front to the other.
Slit centre back
A. Place the back pieces face to face and pin in place from where the diagonal slope starts and about 10 cm above it. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance and press this short part of the centre back seam open.
B. Place the front pieces face to face, unfold the prepressed hem folds and pin along centre front from the bottom and all the way up (make sure your centre front is straight and cut without the sloping side). Sew with 1 cm seam allowance and press the centre front seam open.
C. Iron a nice transition at the hemline centre front. If needed, pin along the refolded hemline and stitch 2 mm below the top fold from one side of centre back to the other.
4. Vent preparation – Only for skirt with a back vent
A. Sew all darts according to the same procedure as the original instruction for both front and back pieces. Place the front and back pieces face to face, unfold the prepressed hem folds and pin along both sides leaving centre front and centre back open. Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance and press both side seams open.
B. Place the front pieces face to face and pin in place. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance along the entire centre front and press the seam open.
C. Iron a nice transition at the hemline centre front. If needed, pin along the refolded hemline and stitch 2 mm below the top fold from one open side to the other.
5. Add the waist facing
First make sure to sew the facing according to the original instruction 11. Facing step A. You can skip the overlocking along the bottom edge now that you are lining the skirt if you don´t plan on machine washing it.
Place the bottom edge of the facing face to face to the top of the lining skirt and match the side seams. Pin or tack in place and sew along this side with a seam allowance of 1 cm. Iron the seam allowance down towards the lining skirt.
6. Attach the lining
For slit centre front or centre back – Repeat on both sides
A. Make sure the outer skirt is sitting wrong side of fabric out, but let the lining skirt come face to face to the outer skirt from the inside. Place the bottom of the hemline of the lining skirt face to face to and aligned with the notch 2 cm above the notch for the hem fold of the outer skirt and pin along the slit side. When you reach the 8 mm cut at the bottom corner of the lining fabric slope, spread the cut and continue to pin along the short sloping side. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance from the lining hem fold and along the slit side. When you reach the 8 mm cut sew as close to it as possible and continue along the sloping side. Fasten as close as possible to the centre front or centre back seam of the outer skirt. Iron the seam allowance along the slit opening towards the outer skirt/slit fold and continue to iron the 1 cm fold all the way down to the bottom edge of the hem.
B. Below you use the same procedure as for the original instruction 11.2 A and B. Fold the slit fold of the outer skirt the other way around face to face and keep the 1 cm fold. Sew in the middle of the hem fold. Cut away the seam allowance of the fold 0,5 cm from the seam. Iron and turn the other way around and make a nice corner. To close the 1 cm fold, you can hand stitch towards the end when stitching the hem of the outer skirt.
For back vent
A. Make sure the outer skirt is sitting right side of fabric out. Place the unfolded protruding part of the lining skirt face to face to the unfolded protruding part of the outer skirt. Match the bottom of the hemline of the lining skirt face to face to and aligned with the notch 2 cm above the notch for the hem fold of the outer skirt and pin along the vent side.
B. Fold the hem fold of the outer skirt the other way around, overlapping the wrong side of fabric of the lining skirt. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance from the bottom of the hem fold of the outer skirt, crossing the lining hem and end the seam at the bottom of the slope of the outer skirt. Cut the corner of the seam allowance at the bottom hem, split open and iron the seam allowance. Turn the other way around and make a neat corner. Iron the entire side making sure none of the lining is showing from the side of the outer skirt.
C. Unfold the pre-pressed protruding part of the outer skirt and place the cut off part of the lining skirt vent face to face to it. Match the lining skirt bottom hemline face to face to and aligned with the notch 2 cm above the notch of the hem fold on the outer skirt and pin along the vent. When you reach the 8 mm cut of the lining fabric, spread it and force the lining sloping side in the opposite direction it is cut, towards the already sewn sloping side of the outer fabric skirt and pin in place. Sew with 1 cm seam allowance, starting 1 cm from the edge at centre back by the top of the lining skirt slope. When you reach the 8 mm cut, sew as close as possible to it, turn direction slightly and continue down the vent side. End the seam at the lining hem fold and the matching notch. Fold and iron the seam allowance towards the side of the vent fold, continue to iron the 1 cm fold that appears on the outer skirt all the way to the bottom edge.
D. Below you use the same procedure as for the original instruction 11.1 A and B. Fold the vent fold of the outer skirt the other way around face to face and keep the 1 cm fold. Sew in the middle of the hem fold. Cut away the seam allowance of the fold 0,5 cm from the seam. Iron and turn the other way around and make a nice corner. To close the 1 cm fold, you can hand stitch as shown in 6.B. For skirt with slit centre front or centre back.
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7. Attaching the lining along the waist and zip – Repeat on both sides
A. Fit the lining skirt inside the outer skirt. Fold the zipper seam allowance as well as facing seam allowance (or lining seam allowance if you chose to skip the facing) towards the wrong side of fabric as they would sit when sewn and pinch the layers together through the open waist. Place a few pins from the wrong side of fabric to keep in place. Turn the skirt inside out so the lining skirt sits face to face to the outer skirt.
B. Continue to pin along the side of the zipper and around the waist. Start to sew at the bottom of the zipper and the top notch at centre back with 0,5 cm seam allowance. Continue up to the waistline, make a 90° turn at the waist and continue along the waistline with 1 cm seam allowance. Repeat the turn at the end of the waist and end at the other bottom of the zipper and top notch. Cut the corners of all seam allowances needed to thin the layers.
C. Separate the lining skirt from the outer skirt through the open bottom hem and push the seam allowance of the waist towards the side of the facing (or lining). Make a 2 mm understitch for as far as you can reach along the waist. Turn the skirt so the lining skirt is sitting right side of fabric out. Iron a nice waist.
D. You now have an opening of the lining skirt along centre back below the zipper and above the slit/vent. Put your hand in between the lining and outer skirt to the left of the slit/vent. Let your hand be seen through the hole, then pinch both layers together with your fingers and pull them out through the bottom where your hand came in. Pin the open sides of centre back lining skirt face to face and sew with 1 cm seam allowance from the top notch (or as close to the top notch you can reach) and all the way to where your last seam for slit/vent centre back was sewn. Split open the seam and iron.
Continue with the original instructions as below:
11.1. D-E + 12 For a skirt with a vent
11.2. C + 12 For a skirt with a slit – Please note! There is no need to make a top stitch around the slit unless one wants that. It is fine to leave the slit unstitched and end the machine stitch towards the end of the hem or hand stitch the hem of course.
Thank you Anki, I will take the challenge to lime my TAL Pencil Skirt!❤️
Exciting! 😊
Do let us know if there are any problems. /Anki